New York Times Review: This is one of those exceptional, family-run, old-fashioned bars that you fall in love with as soon as you enter -- or even before. To the left of the entrance hallway is a snug with etched-glass doors and chased-silver doorknobs. Those doors came from the Celtic, a White Star ocean liner that ran aground in Cork Harbor. Inside the main bar is one long, low-slung room with a polished wooden bar running its full length. The barmen wear white butchers' coats, Victorian-style, and provide a constant supply of pints to the laid-back, predominantly 30-something crowd.